I grew up near the ocean. I wasn’t born into a family of surfers. In fact, for a long time, surfing felt like something “other people” did—something you saw in movies or on postcards. But then, one day, I tried it then next minute - LOVED IT!

 One wave. One ride. That was all it took. And just like that, I was hooked, the power of the wave, the freedom.  

It Started with Curiosity

I’ve always been drawn to the water—swimming, bodyboarding, just floating around. But surfing? That was different. It seemed intimidating, like it belonged to a different world. But deep down, I wanted to know what it felt like to ride a wave instead of just watching them crash. So I finally said screw it and i used my pocket money to buy a board, then a wetsuit..i felt i had it all...

The First Session

That first time paddling out was humbling. I struggled just to sit on the board, much less stand. I wiped out more times than I could count and look i still wipe out today. But even with the salt in my eyes and sore arms, I felt something shift. When I finally caught a small wave, stood up for two to three shaky seconds, and glided toward the shore—it was electric, i felt a new life had formed. I laughed out loud like a little kid, actually i was a kid, just barley 10!! No moment of control or perfection, just pure stoke. It didn’t matter that it was messy. It mattered that I did it.  from here on i was hooked.

What Surfing Gave Me

Since then, surfing has become more than a hobby it has become a way of life.  It taught me patience and resilience but most of all respect!

It made me more in tune with nature. It gave me a community of people who understand the thrill of waking up before sunrise just to paddle out into cold water chasing something invisible but real. 

Surfing has been a teacher. It’s taught me to let go of control, to respect the ocean, to laugh at myself, and to celebrate the smallest wins—like finally nailing a clean bottom turn or just catching one solid wave in a crowded lineup.  

Why I Still Surf

I surf because it makes me feel alive. I surf because it clears my head like nothing else. I surf because even on the worst days, the ocean reminds me that there's always another wave coming. And every time I paddle out, I’m reminded why I started in the first place: not to be the best, not to impress anyone—just to ride, to feel, to be present. End of the day it keep sme grounded, life is special repsect it!

 So why did I get into surfing? Because once you taste that feeling, even for a second, you never stop chasing it. And I wouldn’t trade it for anything.